Yes, 100% financing fix and flip loans exist. I offer coverage of up to 100% of purchase and rehab when the deal supports it. But "100%" describes what the loan covers, not what the project costs you. Closing costs, monthly carry, the first stage of rehab before a draw is released, and a reserve for the things that go wrong all still come out of your pocket or a partner's.
So the honest answer to "can you flip a house with no money" is: you can flip without a down payment on the right deal, and you cannot flip with no cash. The rest of this post is about the difference, what makes a deal qualify, and why the course version of this story leaves out the part that decides whether you survive the project.
What 100% financing fix and flip actually covers
A fix and flip loan from me is one facility that funds two things: the purchase price and the rehab budget. "Up to 100% of purchase and rehab" means that, on a deal that qualifies, the loan can cover the full contract price and the full approved scope of work.
What it does not cover is everything else that a flip consumes between the day you sign the contract and the day you sell:
- Closing costs on the purchase. Title insurance, recording, transfer taxes where they apply, legal, and the lender's own fees. These are due at the closing table, in cash.
- Carry. Interest on the loan, property taxes, insurance and utilities, every month the house is yours. A flip does not stop costing money because the crew took a week off.
- The first stage of rehab. Rehab money is released in draws against completed work. The work gets done, it is inspected, and the draw is wired the same day it clears. That protects both of us, but it means you, or your contractor, front each stage before it is reimbursed. You need enough cash to float the first one.
- Overruns. The approved rehab budget is the budget. When the electrician opens a wall and finds something nobody priced, the extra comes from you.
- Selling costs. Commission and seller side closing costs. These come out of the sale proceeds rather than your bank account, but they reduce what is left, and they are part of whether the deal worked.
It is simply not what people mean when they type "no money down hard money loan", and it is the reason a fully financed flip can still fail for lack of cash.
An illustrative example: 100% financed, still cash in
The figures below are illustrative round numbers chosen to show the arithmetic. They are not a quote, and they are not anyone's terms.
Say you have a house under contract for $150,000 that needs $50,000 of work and should sell for $300,000 when it is finished. The deal is strong enough that the loan covers the full $150,000 purchase and the full $50,000 rehab, a $200,000 facility.
Here is what you still bring:
| Item | When | Illustrative amount |
|---|---|---|
| Buy side closing costs and lender fees | At closing | $8,000 |
| Carry: interest, taxes, insurance, utilities | Monthly, six months at $2,500 | $15,000 |
| Float on the first rehab stage | Before the first draw, then reimbursed | $15,000 |
| Reserve for overruns | Held back, used if needed | $10,000 |
| Cash you need access to at the peak | $48,000 |
Some of that comes back. The $15,000 float is reimbursed when the first draw is wired, and the reserve is yours to keep if nothing goes wrong. But you need to have it, all at once, early in the project, or the project stalls. A stalled flip keeps accruing carry while nothing gets built, which is how a fully financed deal becomes a forced sale.
Run the same arithmetic on your own deal with the fix and flip calculator. The carry line is the one people underestimate most, and it gets its own treatment in holding costs on a flip.
What makes 100 percent financing possible
A lender funding the whole purchase and rehab has no borrower cash standing between the loan and a loss. So the protection has to come from somewhere else. There are three places it can come from.
A purchase price well below the finished value
This is the big one. If the loan, at 100% of purchase and rehab, is still modest compared to what the house will be worth when it is done, the finished property itself provides the cushion. If the project goes wrong and the house has to be sold early, there is room between the loan and the value to absorb it.
That is why full financing is a function of the buy, not of the borrower's wishes. A house bought at market price with a cosmetic rehab will never qualify, because the loan would sit too close to the finished value. A house bought from a motivated seller, well under what it will be worth, can. The classic maximum offer rule of thumb exists for exactly this reason: it builds the margin in at the purchase, where it is cheapest to find.
The finished value has to be real. I underwrite it from sold comparable sales, not from listings and not from the most optimistic sale on the next block. If the after repair value is soft, the cushion is imaginary.
Experience and a track record
A borrower who has finished projects on time and on budget is a smaller risk than one who has not. That is not a judgment about character. It is a judgment about how often first projects run long and over budget, which is often.
Experience shows up as completed flips you can document: the purchase, the scope, the sale. A credible contractor with references counts for something too. A first time flipper is not shut out of financing, but full financing on a first project is a hard ask, and I would rather say so plainly than let you plan around it.
Additional collateral
Sometimes the cushion comes from a second property. If you own another investment property with equity in it, a lender may take a lien on that property as additional collateral, in place of cash you would otherwise bring. This is called cross collateralization.
It works, and it is real risk. If the flip fails, the lender can look to both properties to be repaid. You are betting a property you already own on the project you have not finished. Before you pledge anything, talk to an attorney about what the documents allow and what happens in a default.
What lenders require for full financing
Every lender has its own checklist. The questions I need answered before I can say yes on a fully financed deal are these:
- An executed purchase contract at a price that leaves room below the finished value.
- An itemized scope of work broken out by trade, priced by someone who will do the work, with a contingency on its own line. A per square foot guess is not a budget.
- Comparable sales that support the finished value: sold, recent, nearby and genuinely similar.
- Your track record, documented.
- Proof of funds for what the loan does not cover. Closing costs, carry, the first stage float and a reserve. This is the part that surprises people who came in expecting zero cash.
- An exit. Who buys this house, at what price, and what happens if it does not sell in the time you planned.
Every loan I make closes in an LLC and is for investment property only, never a home you will live in. ITIN borrowers are accepted. The full list is in hard money loan requirements, and the program itself is described on the fix and flip loans page.
When a file is complete, a written term sheet comes back in 24 to 48 hours. It states the loan amount, how much of the purchase and rehab it covers, the pricing, the draw schedule, and what you are expected to contribute. That document is the answer to "how much down do I need" for your deal. Anything said before it is an estimate.
Can you flip a house with no money? The honest take on the guru version
Search this question and much of what comes back is from people selling courses. The pitch is usually some version of "use other people's money", and the claim is not false. It is incomplete in ways that matter.
OPM is somebody's money, with conditions
"Other people's money" means a lender, a private investor, or a partner. A lender wants to be repaid with interest and wants the deal to protect it. A private investor or partner wants a share of the profit, and often a say in the decisions. None of them provide money for free. The cost just moves from your bank account to your profit line, which is fine when the deal has room for it and fatal when it does not.
Partnerships in particular deserve care. Who puts in what, who decides when the budget runs over, who covers a shortfall, and how the profit is split if the house sells for less than planned should all be written down before money moves. Raising money from investors can also bring securities rules into play. That is a conversation for an attorney, not a handshake.
Wholesaling is not flipping
A common "no money" path is wholesaling: putting a house under contract and assigning the contract, or doing a double close, to a buyer who does the renovation. It can take very little capital, and it is a legitimate business. But it is not a flip. You earn a fee for finding the deal. The buyer takes on the rehab, the carry and the sale. If your goal is to flip houses, wholesaling can build the cash and the deal sense to do it later. It does not replace the cash a flip consumes.
Somebody always carries the risk
This is the question I would ask about any no money down plan: if the rehab runs two months long and the house sells for less than projected, who pays?
On a fully financed flip with no reserve, the honest answer is that nobody has planned to. The lender is protected by the property, and if the cushion is there, the lender gets repaid. The borrower is the one who loses the deal, their time, and often their credit standing with every lender they want to work with next. "No money down" moves the cash requirement around. It does not remove the risk. It concentrates it on the person with the least margin.
Full financing is a good tool for an investor who has found a deal with a real cushion, has the cash to carry it, and wants to keep capital free for the next project. It is a bad tool for someone using it to start a flip they cannot afford to finish.
Does 100% financing cost more?
Usually, yes. A lender funding the entire purchase and rehab has more at risk than one funding part of it, and pricing tends to reflect that. Rate and points are set by credit, experience and the deal, and your number is stated in the term sheet rather than published in advance.
The comparison that matters is not the rate on a fully financed loan against the rate on a partially financed one. It is what the financing lets you do. If full financing keeps cash free for a second deal, or lets you take a deal you could not otherwise close, the extra cost can be worth it. If the deal is thin, higher financing cost on top of a thin margin is how a flip ends up breaking even after six months of work. How the full cost adds up is in what a hard money loan actually costs.
Under the terms published on this site there is no prepayment penalty (confirm it in your written term sheet), so finishing early is a real saving on interest rather than something you pay to do.
Before you go looking for a fix and flip loan with no money down
Price the deal first. Start from comparable sales, build the rehab budget by trade, and add closing costs, carry for the hold you would actually defend, and selling costs. If the house is bought far enough below the finished value, full financing becomes a realistic conversation. If it is not, no lender's structure will fix it, and the right move is to negotiate the price or walk.
Then count the cash. Not the down payment, which may be zero. The closing costs, the carry, the first stage float, and a reserve you are prepared to spend. If you can cover those, a fully financed flip is a way to keep capital working. If you cannot, the project is not ready yet, however good the house looks.
If your numbers hold up, get pre-approved and send me the deal. You will have a written term sheet in 24 to 48 hours that says exactly what the loan covers and what you need to bring.